Travel blogStories, routes and things worth knowing

Everything a destination page can't hold: when to come, what's on the plate, why the wind runs the show, and where to watch wildlife without disturbing it.

Photo: Felipe.Alarcon · CC BY-SA 3.0

All history9 Magallanes9 Aysén6 nature6 on foot4 Carretera Austral2 weather2 Indigenous peoples2 things to do2 tips1 when to go1 wildlife1 food and drink1 driving1 what to eat1 seasons1

September 11, 20263 minCoyhaique

From Coyhaique to Cerro Castillo: the first day south

Photo: Felipe.Alarcon · CC BY-SA 3.0

Some ninety-six kilometers between the city and a village at the foot of a fortress-shaped mountain. What to sort out before you leave, and two stops worth not skipping: a school its neighbors built and a wall with hands painted thousands of years ago.

September 4, 20263 minCoyhaique

The Carretera Austral is not a highway

Photo: Lin linao · CC BY-SA 4.0

It’s called Route 7 and runs 1,240 kilometers, but half of it is gravel and it doesn’t connect anything in one continuous line. Understanding that before you rent the car heads off ninety percent of the scares.